Daily Journal: Day 19, June 1st, Port Denison to Kalbarri
 

Anje started the day by discovering a large carrot under her pillow.

Most of us stayed at Port Dennison just out of Dongara. This is a lovely fishing area but we struck the early days of a long, long weekend with a bowls tournament in town. Carol commented about all the “grey hairs” in the camp kitchen – that’s not us! We needed fuel – petrol and coffee – in Dongara.

Five different groups spoke to us about the trip and about Peugeots – we had difficulty getting out of town. It sure “felt” like a nice community. We eventually hit the road with lots of caravans heading north. The holiday season must be here. We crossed the Hutt River this afternoon. This is the area that seceded from Australia – Prince Leonard set up his own country. Further into the Kalbarri National Park there were great stops including fantastic views of the coastline heading into the pretty village of Kalbarri.

Sylvia, Singapore – Chinese by birth, did not know how to cook rice without her rice cooker.

Lots of bonnets up in camp as mechanics, and others, checked their cars for another day.

Glenn and Carol Hall.

Daily Journal: Day 20, June 2nd, Kalbarri to Carnarvon

The previous evening saw a few members eating at Finlay’s Fresh Fish BBQ, a salubrious Kalbarri establishment. It was run by Murray – “Free flowing and full of b……t, like the River.” (his words). A certain English lady was seen to throw a toilet roll across the table – it was that kind of night! Salty topped the evening off with his rather fetching head-gear.

TODAY:
On the road again……
Left sunny Kalbarri as the pelicans were being fed on the foreshore. Passed rich-looking soil, lots of Banksia trees then came across Robert and Enes being assisted by Gary and Evelyn to replace a missing bolt from a disc calliper. Before long they were joined by many willing helpers and Chris came to the rescue with the right bolt.
The morning tea stop over, we drove on through thinning vegetation and few trees, though we did find one tree to have lunch under with Hank and Jo and a million flies – shortest lunch ever!!
We drove into Carnarvon through the memorial to seamen who were on the HMAS Sydney 2.
An ecstatic French tourist was very fortunate to receive one of our ‘door stickers’ from our “team leader” at Ross Graham Lookout.
Max is now shaded by the “block-out” shade found in Chris’ luggage – lucky Max!! Thanks for the suggestion, Annie.

Glenys and Robert Trembath

Daily Journal: Day 21, June 3rd, Carnarvon to Exmouth

Morning tea under the river gums at Minilya roadside stop on the way to Exmouth.

Extract from the log of “Pug-Ship Decrepitude”, 3 June, 2007

The day dawned clear at Carnarvon and the crew of “Decrepitude” woke late to the unmistakable sound of French four cylinder engines with primitive chokes being started. The forecast was for 28 deg C in Carnarvon and Exmouth, so another hot, northward day’s driving was anticipated, with an easterly wind to starboard.
The “Decrepitude” trailed the L’Aventuronaut fleet for most of the day, a consequence of spending two hours at the Mile Long Jetty and OTC dish before departing Carnarvon.
Instantly noticeable north of Carnarvon was the almost complete absence of kangaroo carcasses – a marked difference to the carnage on the road south of Carnarvon. This confirmed the tentative hypothesis advanced the previous evening: that the carnage is due to fruit and vegetable trucks leaving Carnarvon at dusk or in the evening for the overnight run to Perth.
The run to Minilya was uneventful, with the L’Aventuronaut fleet well over the horizon to the north. The first mate of “Decrepitude” rigged tropical awnings of surplus tourist maps to shade her position on the bridge.
As we approached the Tropic of Capricorn, we were rapidly overhauled by “Pug-Ship Dieselica”, immediately recognisable by the grey auxilliary methane propulsion unit on the cabin roof. Shortly after, at the Coral Cove turn-off, we came within hailing distance of “Dieselica”, however no reply was obtained as the crew appeared to be busy with nitrogen jettisoning duties.
On the run into Coral Cove, we passed “Pug-Ship L’Heritage”, the oldest in the fleet making good speed to the east, apparently with water loss problems well under control. The fleet was found at anchor, lunching in Coral Cove amid swarms of flies and backpackers. “Decrepitude” opted for lunch under way with air-conditioning running and by mid-afternoon, we dropped the hook at the gorges in the Cape Range, to spend an hour investigating the sequence of limestones and siltstones, but in the absence of fossil finds, were none the wiser as to the age of this spectacular range.

Ian and Sue Reeve (crew of “Pug-Ship Decrepitude”)

Daily Journal: Day 22, June 4th, Exmouth to Karratha

Lineup in front of iron ore outcrops at Fotescue Roadhouse.

Last night, the winning Ampol navigator giggled a lot while making dinner as some of the smoke from the backpacker area had influenced her decision making!
Today started for us at “sparrow’s fart’ but still John and Guia were first out at 6.40am. The sky was brilliant pink – normally ‘shepherd’s warning’ – but nothing transpired to fulfil the prophecy. We passed what appeared to be a termite farm with the spinifex termite mounds standing up to 2 metres high littering the countryside. We soon overtook a Backpackers coach with the driver wearing a full crash helmet – we wondered what he knew and his passengers didn’t???!!! A little later Barry and Tina were pulled over – ‘the Bill’ wanted a chat with Mollie; he wanted to know what all the Peugeots were doing. We also spotted a wedge tail eagle sitting on a branch about 2 metres off the road calmly watching all the peugeots go by. Roadkill tended to be more cattle than roos, judging by all the carcases today. There was one cow standing beside her dead calf and there was a noticeable odour in the air for most of the trip.
The road passed through some amazing scenery – varying from dry scrub through ancient red dunes to rock strewn hills with iron ore lumps reputedly so pure that a rod can be welded to them. The bloke on a pushbike with no hat in the middle of nowhere seemed to have the energy to wave to everyone going by. Was he doing this for fun??? Maybe he was also riding a Peugeot!!!
Karratha has its own French car club as discovered by Paul. A 2CV sedan and a very rare van owned by a local couple who make up the entire committee and the membership.
When we arrived at campsite we discovered our site - #2 occupied by a ‘Yorkshire’ couple (where “only bums keep seats”) from site # 10. We’ve since heard that car number 16 is changing its number to 10.
As bedtime came for some, Neville was seen sheepishly creeping out of the women’s loo. He claimed the ‘WO’ was hidden by a wall when he walked in.

Myra and Alastair Inglis

Story of the Crash Helmeted Bus Driver
Fellow (& fellowess) travellers, pugging nonchantly away in this desolate wilderness (no greenies, no greenery, just harshness). Beware the rogue Tiger, an empirable carry over of the raj. Clad innocently in silver and embattled white, marked with red gashes, bigish but not so long, thematically sealed apart from its one physical weakness.
This being its offside glassy eye - missing - a resulting injury from doing battle with another doyen of the bitumen this Mack monster. The duel apparently was short and sweet. Mack won, the Tiger Leylanding away from the fray. A David and Goliath affair, in reverse!
Goliath (being illiterate), not knowing the script and with one quick spin of its rubbery rotating Goodrich Slinger, radiating, gladiating, confidence. It fires off a stoney pellet – wack into the glass eye of this Tiger reducing its vision to that of Cyclops. Forcing this tiger to Leyland off with all the power it can muster, belching clouds of threatening deiselistic smoke screens to safety.
It was shortly hereafter, when we courageously halted to see if we could render some assistance to this poor thing.
Face on, one reflected enclosed aperture, the other, a dark exposed cavity. There was something there, whitish, almost like an eyeball. Some mask (the pupil) in the centre. It moved ominously.
Not a sound emanated as this injured Tiger remained stationary. We approached with great caution, standing back a little for safety sake. Despite its size and apparent affliction, wounded Tigers can be dangerous, even to good Samaritans.
I quickly took a shot (photographically speaking) jumped into my seat. It, the Tiger remained Leylanded. Nev, engine running (the Pug that is – Nev don’t have no engine, moves off gingerly.
Later while checking my daily pics, in the cool and the calm of the evening. It’s spookey (remember that faceless pursuing truck in Duel (the movie). Remember!! The frontal photo of this chameleon just showed what at best could be described as a split windscreen (ie. one half) the other half, a black cavity, devoid of detail. Was it a masked (helmeted) driver controlling this Leylandistic Tiger? Or what?
Sorry komrades, believe it or not. This was not a delusion in the heat of the day. And strict rules apply. “No grog till sunset”, have faith I saw what I saw.

Willie Skidmore E & O.E.

Daily Journal: Day 23, June 5th, Karratha to 80 Mile Beach

'Bread Van' and Mollie parked outside historic Customs House at Cossack

Left at 7.15 am for 80 Mile Beach, warm 30 degree day. Fee at Caravan Park $38 for powered site – most expensive so far. Brian needed some early morning alternator repairs.
Passed many horses and foals in a paddock. Straight road, easy travelling, stock in paddocks in good condition. Country becoming greener, but rivers mainly a string of puddles. Many mountains had unusual rocky outcrops at their summit. Changes in vegetation are constantly evident including magnificent white trunked eucalypts lining the creek beds. Some visited Cossack an historic town including a magnificent 360 degree lookout.
Phil Thomas had a great day in Les’ car. A nice stone chip from a passing road train was followed by a selector shaft falling off and lastly, a tyre shredded on the camper. Amazing the way some people look after a mate’s car!
Mollie, the 403 wagon, developed a strange blue temporary smoking habit. Basil paid $4.80 for an ice cream and is still recovering from the shock.

Basil and Pat Moran

Daily Journal: Day 24, June 6th, 80 Mile Beach to Broome

Some found it difficult to leave the idyllic campsite at 80 Mile Beach while others enjoyed an early morning stroll along the beach. Garry and Evelyn took the support 4wd to pursue their passion of bird recognition. The grader was in action early leaving a smooth run out to Highway 1 for those who were tardy.
First stop for many was the Sandfire roadhouse which had recently burnt down but was back in action after only 2 days with a temporary building. The walk to the toilets needed cut lunch and back pack.
Roebuck roadhouse was the site for Glenn allowing his vehicle to head off towards Broome by itself.
Sites at Cable Beach caravan park are always at a premium but thanks to WA participants, Barry and Tina Mouritz accommodation was secured. Everyone moved into relaxed mode knowing that tomorrow morning there is no need to hit the road. The balmy evening put on a glorious sunset which had many of our photographers clicking away happily.
Phil found an enormous hole under his bed in Les’s camper. He blames the shredded tyre!!!

Trish and John Brockman

Daily Journal: Day 25, June 7th, Broome, Rest day

Today is a rest day in Broome. Fittingly, Broome, as they say, is a place to take it easy, hence we kind of ‘slipped into Broometime’ as the locals put it. However, certain chores still needed to be done. Whilst the ladies made a bee line to the laundry, the guys made routine checks on their vehicles; replacements of belts, spark plugs, tappet checks – anything that will keep them busy and thus, an ‘excuse’ not to accompany their wives to town for pearl shopping. Speaking of which, Murray is reportedly breezing through the Willie Creek Pearl Farm frantically looking for a particular order for his loved one – and we don’t mean Salty!
Broome has a few interesting places – Gantheaume Point is a jumble of red rock stacks that make a striking contrast to the turquoise sea beyond. It is the place where one can measure one’s foot size against Dinosaur footprints in the tidal flats.
The Sun Pictures cinema at Carnarvon Street is one of the oldest original picture houses in the world. Built in 1916, the screen is outdoors and most of the deckchairs are out under the stars. By the time this writing goes into print, some of us would already have reserved our deckchairs watching the screening of “Wild Hogs”. We are back on the road again by sun up tomorrow.
Carol's enthusiastic calisthenics movements resulted in a breach in the rear of the daks.
Happy birthday Barry!

Sylvia and Percy Hee

Daily Journal: Day 26, June 8th, Broome to Derby

We left Broome after a relaxing day at Cable Beach. Members participated in various activities, e.g. visiting the Willie Creek Pearl Farm, camel riding at sunset (one member was on the biggest, fastest racing camel in WA), or generally just relaxing by or in the pool.
Off to Derby today – hope Glenn has a leash on his car after hearing that it took off by itself recently!
Today we have adopted two new members into L’Aventure Peugeot. James and Stacey, a young couple from England driving a Wicked Mitsubishi van. They are travelling around Australia and for safety reasons asked if they could join our group from today in Derby to Darwin. They will be the trip reporters for Day 28.
We have worked out that rivers in WA are dry, but creeks have water in them.
The Caravan Park at Derby is pleasantly shaded and following Mr. Whippy’s visit, we think he should be able to retire now!

Glenys and Robert Tremberth

Daily Journal: Day 27, June 9th, Derby to Halls Creek

The halfway mark of our fantastic L’Aventure began today at Derby. We travelled the long white road through red soil, and grassy savannah woodlands. The occasional majestic, sculptured Boab tree added extra interest to the trip.
We crossed the flat topped Erskine Range, and passed grass fires on our way to Fitzroy Crossing. We headed for Geike Gorge where after a walk along the sandy river bank to the gorge walls we had lunch among the trees and vines with Halls, Trembaths, Verwoerts, Inglis’ and the Reeves. “Were those tracks in the sand made by kangaroos or crocodiles?” We made a detour to the old Fitzroy Crossing settlement where we crossed the river on the original ford.
After lunch we travelled up Ngumban Cliffs and stopped at the lookout to see the fantastic colours and panorama across the plains. We overtook the Bread Van loaded with wood for a fire at the bush camp. The Verwoerts were multitasking. “Its now a Wood Truck!!” Hank said.
Some adventurers were staying at a bush camp at Mary Creek. “Go past Louisa, but if you pass Margaret you have gone too far” We stopped at Mary Creek to see how the other half of our group were going to spend the night. White river gums, grassy campsite, river rocks, lots of other campers and a crocodile sighting were all part of their adventure.
The rocky outcrops were a beautiful orange in the late afternoon light as we continued on to Halls Creek. Our day ended with a three course home cooked meal, jovial company, a comfy bed and a good nights sleep.

Brian and Merrilyn Ward

Daily Journal: Day 28, June 10th, Halls Creek to Kununurra

At the bush camp on the previous evening, there were various sightings of a ten foot crocodile looming around camp so it was no surprise that a few people decided to risk Halls Creek after all.
Once Salty had finished fluffing up the faggart wagon, everyone sat round the fire eating marshmallows. James produced his guitar and Salty was in his element making everyone laugh with his made up songs. Percy even chipped in with a classic aussie/singapore version of Waltzing Matilda.
For us the morning began at 6am, and after a bowl of Phil’s porridge, which we could not see over the top of, we were ready to go in our Arctic Monkey Wicked van with L’Aventure Peugeot sticker on the windscreen. We were out of camp by 7.15 and it didn’t take long to catch a few good photo opportunities with the scenic drive being the best the two of us have ever experienced. We passed through Halls Creek to refuel. Only one pump out of 14 had survived the night!
After dumping all our fruit to pass through border quarantine we were back on the road with our destination Kununurra. As everyone settled in at Kona Waters caravan park we couldn’t resist taking a scenic flight round the Bungle Bungles. We were accompanied by Dave and Jan with Myra and Alastair in another plane. It was absolutely fanatastic.

James Reynolds and Stacey Bent (adopted L’Aventure Peugeot members)

Daily Journal: Day 29, June 11th, Kununurra to Katherine

An early start for most of us – we lose one and a half hours today as we head to the NT. Peter and Carol Wilson joined us again in Kununurra after their epic journey across the country. We now have two 403’s on the run. We laughed as Murray and Salty left, they’ve rigged a ‘washing machine’ atop their Pug, which apparently takes $2 coins – the last we heard it was on the spin cycle!!
Crossing into the NT we realised ‘Mollie’ was under pressure to perform – 130kmh the sign said – alas she failed dismally! We probably all noticed the difference in NT roads, they are not a patch on WA (no pun intended). It was yet another day of amazing scenery through the ranges, contrasting colours and escarpments. Alastair and Myra located the old Police Station at Timber Creek where Alastair was unsuccessful in his attempt to lock her in.
Driving into Victoria River was spectacular – recommend it to your friends. A little bird told us there that Allan and Grant had amazingly large T-Bones at the roadhouse (buffalo maybe?) The early risers amongst us managed a side trip into the Ord Dam and Lake Argyle (a worthwhile visit), or a cruise up the Katherine Gorge. Kaye and Phil went into a car cleaning frenzy at Katherine – Les and Lenie are back tomorrow!! The hot springs at the Park were enjoyed by quite a few. For us, Barra and chips were a perfect way to end the day.

Tina and Barry Mouritz

Daily Journal: Day 30, June 12th, Katherine to Darwin

Despite the loss of 1.5 hours coming over the border, everyone was up early as usual. Someone didn’t want Percy and Sylvia to leave as he had his sneakers nicked during the night. They leave today but we’re sure they’ll be back for another event. Sadly, we also said goodbye to Basil and Pat - we’ll miss Basil’s wry humour. Robert and Enes are also having to cut short due to business commitments. It’s always sad to see travelling companions depart.
As we are returning to Katherine in a few days time after we leave the group, we didn’t visit the obvious attraction. Those that did take a trip up the gorge were much impressed. We visited the historic Springvale Homestead, now restored and used as the office of a caravan park, with its magnificent shady South American Raintrees. We dropped by the Edith Falls in the Nitmiluk National Park. The falls are quite small but the large pool was very inviting. The rest of our trip was uneventful, passing through flat lands covered with short, spindly eucalypts with much evidence of the ancient aboriginal art of ‘fire stick farming’ along the roadsides.
It was good to see Les and Lenie back again and Graham (Wallis) rejoining with Liz and Chris. Three other previous eventers were also waiting to welcome us all into the campsite: Chris and Val Hall, John and Dot Vagg and Mike and Lesley Jolly.
The evening entertainment in the campsite by Fats Thomo was outrageous and good humoured Geoff thought it was the best $2 he’d spent in a long time and was wandering around in his new T-shirt “Adventure before Dementia” on the front and being told all sorts of bull about what was on the back!
Neville was caught again snaking into the Women’s Loo. He said the toilets are usually Men at one end and Women at the other, so when he saw the Women’s one he walked into the other end without looking! This will be our last night of tenting, as we leave the group tomorrow. We’ll be writing another piece on our impressions at a later date, but suffice to say at this point that It will be a sad day – we’ve had so much fun with a bunch of great travelling companions.

Myra and Alastair Inglis

Daily Journal: Day 31, June 13th, Darwin, Rest day

A productive day started just after midnight – the obligatory six hours had passed and I was able to check the wagons valve clearance. It seems that receding hair is more a problem for me than a valve recession.
Most pugs turned up at the European Car Service Centre in Winnellie to perform oil changes/servicing or checking under the car using the hoist. The cleanliness of this establishment had to be seen to be believed! One of our gang was chided for some dirty marks on the floor that had been left by the previous vehicle, but the mop and bucket had to come out to maintain the pristine floor. That was enough for Neville who was waiting in line to do his service. He was seen jumping in his car muttering something about going to tip to drop his oil! The proprietor, John, was most generous with his time and allowing us to use his facility.
Guia made Darwin a double winner, buying a dress and shoes for our son’s July wedding.
A mid L’Aventure dinner was held at the Darwin RSL this evening. This was to bid farewell to the Inglis, Trembarth and Hee teams and welcome the Wallace family, Karen and Margie (the all girl team) and return of the Jennings team. John and Dot Vagg, Chris and Val Hall along with Myra and Alastair will be travelling down the centre to Adelaide in three campervans for the next couple of weeks. We wish them well in their travels but it will certainly not be the same as a pugging!
Presentations were made to Hank and Jo for organising such a great trip and Annie Brown for her many late nights sorting photos and updating the website.

John and Guia Baird

Daily Journal: Day 32, June 14th, Darwin to Jabiru

After the celebrations of the night before a leisurely start saw the main group head off towards Jabiru. An Information Centre overlooking the vast wetlands of the Adelaide River was visited by many. Some were confronted by a black whip snake and others saw crocodiles at Fogg Dam. Woodlands of eucalypts and tall grasses gave way to more flood plains and billabongs.
Many areas were being burnt beside the road which meant that numerous birds, especially whistling kites were there to take advantage of the smorgasbord of fleeing creatures. Jabirus, the symbol of Kakadu, which are really black headed storks were spotted in the billabongs. Bowali Information Centre at Jabiru was a wealth of aboriginal history. We visited Ubirr, 40 kms west of Jabiru where many ancient aboriginal rock paintings could be viewed. After an energetic climb to the lip of the escarpment, the sunset over the vast wetlands was truly spectacular.
After dinner at the restaurant, Graham Wallis devoured a huge slice of lemon meringue pie and ice cream in true rally fashion.

Jo and Hank Verwoert

Splinter Group – Darwin to Douglas Daly Park
After a great evening and many sad partings Kaye and I settled onto our air bed for our evening pill taking ritual. The night was capped when Cruiser Kaye fumbling around in the dark mistakenly selected a packet of pegs instead of her packet of pills. This produced enough hilarity to cause her to cascade off the air bed.
Mollie, Tina and Barry, The Green Frog, Phil and Kaye the Jennings 505 and Tony and Annie in the 404 farm ute have separated from the main group for the night.
The general store at Adelaide River was a real treat and our companion Tina was able to supplement her dwindling wine supplies before her skin cracked.
Morning saw four of us head off through Litchfield National Park with lunch and a dip at Wangi falls. Then on to Douglas Daly Park for the evening, whilst the bulk of the group headed to Jabiru. While we all lazed in the thermal pools surrounded by bush and visited by local fauna we recommend this place as a stopover on future trips. Our evening was completed with a fantastic pot luck dinner and a very peaceful sleep.

Phil and Kaye Thomas

Daily Journal: Day 33, June 15th, Jabiru to Mataranka

Brian and Merrilyn got their 404 away from Jabiru, an early start to check the highlights on the 400 km drive to Mataranka. First stop, the fabulous Nourlangie Rock, famous for its proliferation of aboriginal rock art. They also visited Yellow Water, a wonderful wetland complex. Thought the optimum time to view this was at day break when the inhabitants (crocs included!) moved out for the day.
We were very pleased to greet Ian and Rayna Emmerson, who are living in Katherine having moved there from St Ives in Sydney, proudly driving a very good 505. An extraordinary meeting was called to discuss Peugeot business of course.
Our Darwin changeover, all ladies crew, Karen and Margie had a ‘bum start’ to their trip. Karen was hit with a dreadful virus that meant an extra night in Darwin for them and today had to travel two days in one. We wish Karen a speedy recovery.
Meanwhile the ‘Wagga Boys’ materialised at camp with a funny story from Pine Creek Servo. Distinguished gentlemen that they are, despite pushing their 404 at 130km/hr + past our 505, was under surveillance as soon as they arrived to fill up. Having filled up they were escorted by a chinese gentleman into the office to pay their bill of $25.24. The vendor prompted the teller to round the amount to $25.25. A protest was called, Allan declaring he was paying by card so it should be 24 cents. Our vendor wanting it rounded regardless. Allan one,vendor none. He couldn’t make ‘cents’ out of this one!
It was a sad day for all of us to bid adieu to ‘the kids’ and their Wicked wagon. These acquired ‘pommies’ doing Australia had some little time ago been awarded L’Aventure Peugeot honorary fellows, had engrained themselves into our hearts. A bright, happy, stimulating couple who gave us as much as was given. We all wish them well in the future and that the remainder of their stay on Oz is beaut!

Neville Summerill and Willie Skidmore

From The Splinter Group - Douglas Daly Park to Mataranka
After a short drive, or a long walk, to the beautiful “Arches” water hole we made our way to the Douglas Hot Springs. This was a 7km dirt road drive passing through a creek crossing, which we were undecided about crossing, but Les took the gallant leap through and like sheep the others followed.
The water at the springs was so hot in places you could not even put your foot in it. It ran crystal clear over a sandy bottom. Phil and Tony enjoyed lolling around in a hot pot hole. A cuppa, then off again to pass through the water crossing, this time setting up the video camera to catch all the action. Catch all the action we did! Tony’s ute stopped just as he was about to join us on the other side. Phil came to the rescue, again, and towed the ute out. A stopover at Pine creek to enjoy a beautiful lunch at Mayse’s is recommended to all travellers.
Barry and Tina said their goodbyes at Katherine and headed west. After weighing in Les, Lenie and Kaye went for a fantastic helicopter ride over the Katherine Gorge.
It was then on to Mataranka for our overnight stop.

The Splinter Group.

Daily Journal: Day 34, June 16th, Mataranka to Tennant Creek

Hard to leave the “green coloured marble” amenities at Mataranka – the new all girl crew thought the new building MUST be new toilets and showers! We were on the road in good ‘Hall time’, most already having left.
Open woodlands, knee high grass, dotted with red anthills all clearly revealed where the grass had been burnt. Long straight open road and no car radio leads to a song. To the tune of ‘It’s along way to Tipperary’ -
“It’s a long way to Mt Isa,
It’s a long way to go.
It’s a long way to Mt Isa in our Peugeot 404,
Goodbye Kakadu, hello Tennant Creek,
It’s a long long way to Mt Isa and we are almost there.’
Three cars have headed off on an alternate route via Cape Crawford. We stick to the highway and white gum trees with rough bark, topped with masses of creamy blossoms. Visited historic Newcastle Waters and talked to a road train driver. He and many others were collecting cattle to take to Darwin to meet waiting ships heading to Indonesia. The store was built in 1935 as part of a droving town. One wall is made of bottles ‘cemented’ together. Other buildings are made from corrugated iron.
Late in the afternoon, Peter Wilson was having trouble with his 403, loss of oil from the diff. He filled it with oil and headed onto Tennant Creek safely with an escort.
Many of the campers were entertained by a bush poet and thoroughly enjoyed the evening with a billy tea and damper.

Carolyn and Glenn Hall

From the Splinter Group - Mataranka to Brunette Downs
Left Mataranka’s red dusty campsite and headed down the Stuart Highway towards Daly Waters, a very little place well known for its quirky pub. I’m sure it has the most hats and bras in Australia hanging from its rafters! The road was lined with white gums, red ant hills and small shrubs with large orange leaves. We stopped at the Daly Waters pub and checked conditions of the road to Cape Crawford and Barkly Homestead. Decision was made to take this alternative route.
We filled up at the Highway Inn and set off east along the Carpentaria Highway. It was a pretty good road, straight, wide then narrowing and getting wide again with the edges well cut back to make visibility easy, not much traffic too. Yellow wattle, pink calistamens, eucalypts, silver amongst the darker green and silver sheoks were all through the country. The naked red anthills were quite visible against the blackened background of burnt grasses.
After a quick lunch stop at October Creek on to Cape Crawford, a green oasis with a number of 4wds arriving at the same time. No deisel today! Perhaps they will have to stay the night in the camping ground and wait for tomorrow’s delivery. We did fill up with unleaded and headed south to Barkly Homestead with the very scenic Amber Ranges on our left with white gums everwhere.
The sky was darkening in front of us. Stopped at Brunette Downs Roadside stop where a fireplace was already glowing. Set up camp, cooked dinner on the open fire and off to bed ready for an early start. First, the wind came up and made the tent flap madly, then thunder and lightning and down came the rain. A road train arrived and then left sometime in the night and early in the morning a car raced past tooting its horn. Oh the joys of camping out!

The Splinter Group – Les, Lenie, Phil, Kaye, Tony and Annie

Daily Journal: Day 35, June 17th, Tennant Creek to Mt Isa

Lady Grey let us down yesterday and decided to raise diff problems. Thanks to all who assisted.
After leaving the old gold mining town of Tennant Creek we turned right, heading East along the Barkly Tablelands. In the past few days we have needed aircon – (quarter lights fully open) but today it is heater! Overnight rain produced a brisk but fine start to the day, the rain setting in from then on.
The scenery was very similar to the previous day, low shrubs, fewer, smaller termite mounds and wattle starting to appear. We passed numerous areas affected by fire. Is this controlled burning or environmental vandalism?
Hot soup was the order of the day, eight of us huddled in a very wet shelter at Avon Downs. Rain continued and became heavier towards Mt Isa; at least two cars receiving chipped windscreens from road trains. And to finish the day off for us, the wipers failed 10 kms out of Mt Isa!

Peter and Carol Wilson

Brunette Downs to Mt Isa
Woke to a wet tent and red mud. Had a cuppa, packed up and headed off on the last 140 kms to Barkly Homestead with the heaters on. Light rain was falling but the sky was looking very dark. Lots of cattle were crossing the road, a dingo jumped through the long grass and Phil narrowly missed a huge red kangaroo. Heavy rain was falling when we stopped at Barkly for a warming breakfast.
The first 100kms towards Camooweal seemed to go very quickly. Then disaster, as a road train came towards Tony's 404 ute splashing up water, a loud explosion and the windscreen shattered. All three cars stopped and everyone helped to pull out the glass pieces as the rain tumbled down much heavier than before. With lots of discussion and stuffing around in backs of cars, the boys came up with a picnic rug and a plastic blanket bag that was taped over the cab of the 404. Tony drove on through the pouring rain for 150kms with Les leading the way to keep Tony on the left side of the centre line and Phil following with the hazard lights on. Annie was fortunate to find some space in the ‘green frog’.
At Camooweal, Max dropped an emergency windscreen (akin to an oven bag) on the table, which was put in place in the driest spot in town, the shelter shed in the picnic grounds. Tony had a chance to change his wet clothes and found his raincoat. Off we went again travelling at about 90 kms/hr. Of course, the emergency windscreen was not meant to be used at speed and not with those huge road trains passing splashing great pools of water on it so it blew out and Tony drove the last 90 kms to Mt Isa with only part of the window still in place. He arrived very cold and dripping wet including his phone and wallet. A good hot shower and a roast dinner at the Mt Isa Leagues Club finished off the day.

The Splinter Group – Les, Lenie, Phil, Kaye, Tony and Annie

Daily Journal: Day 36, June 18th, Mt Isa, Rest day

First stop at caravan park to put up tent after a night spent in a motel due to the day being very wet. Then off to the underground hospital built in 1942 when it was thought Mt Isa may have been a target of Japanese planes then on to the lookout for a look and video.
Next stop was Outback at Mt Isa and Information centre. There were plenty of brochures with loads of things to do to fill in time around the Isa, a museum and a great café. Many folks went on the three hour underground mine tour – orange overalls, helmets, miner’s light, battery pack and gum boots. Some even got to use the pneumatic drill as used by the miners. Demonstrations were given on loaders, boggers and jumbosand at afternoon tea, tea, coffee and anzac biscuits were enthusiastically devoured in ‘the crib’. Their guide was very informative as he had worked in the mines for 38 years and had a great sense of humour. Many others had been before and took the opportunity to have a day of rest.
Poor Carol sat by herself in the café having shopped out Mt Isa. Hank and Jo did a river crossing on the way to Lake Moondarra. No soggy buns!!!
There was a lot of time spent phoning around to find a windscreen for Tony’s 404 ute. Ross Keith in Townsville came to the rescue with a second hand screen which was sent with TNT overnight to Mt Isa.

Geoff and Anje Mann

Daily Journal: Day 37, June 19th, Mt Isa to Normanton

After a relaxing stay in Mt Isa we headed off to the Gulf region. Tony and Annie departed late as they had to fit a windscreen which had been shipped from Townsville by PCCV member Ross Keith.
On the way to Cloncurry we had the unexpected opportunity to visit the site of Mary Kathleen, the mining town which was built following the discovery of Uranium in 1954.
At Cloncurry the Mary Kathleen Park and Museum had photos and memorabilia from the town, which seemed to be an excellent place to live but was dismantled after the uranium contract ran out in 1984.
Peter and Carol were continuing on, the 403 not seeming to leak diff oil after its near melt down prior to Tennant Creek. Unfortunately things started to get a bit noisy by Cloncurry, the pinion bearing seemed to going out in sympathy with the worm wheel!
After a little investigation during which Peter found a 403 sedan in use he managed to find the owners of the 403 wagon at McKinley that we had partly dismantled during the Redex Rerun in 2003.
He successfully removed the diff centre and continued on to Julia Creek for the night. Apparently the property’s driveway was something to behold after the torrential rain of Sunday and all were suitably impressed by the 403s ability to negotiate it.
For the rest of us the only excitement was descending the 70 metres down onto the coastal plain a few km after leaving the Burke and Wills RoadHouse. After so many km of nothing, Normanton came as a pleasant surprise, being the administrative centre for the Gulf Region.
Those that arrived early took the chance to continue on to Kurumba and catch a look at the coast, something that Burke and Wills never achieved due to mangroves and the difficult terrain in most other parts of he gulf coastline.
Happy birthday Evelyn.

Graham and Liz Wallis

Daily Journal: Day 38, June 20th, Normanton to Croydon

Waiting for the Gulflander at Black Bull Siding

Today, the interest lies mainly in the manner of our transport between Normanton Railway Station and Croydon Railway Station. This unique section of track was laid between 1888 and 1891 to service the bustling goldfield of Croydon. Since then, a variety of first locomotives and then railmotors have transported passengers and cargo along the track. The line was laid on steel sleepers (a completely unique feature), in a controversial way that allowed floodwaters to pass over the top of it; it is a ‘submersible railway’.
The railmotor that carried us is called the ‘Gulflander’. Halfway down the track the train stopped at Blackbull siding, where we took morning tea and the rail passengers and car drivers ‘changed shifts’ (the road and track were mostly side by side) until we arrived in Croydon. However, all this happened with much adventure and a certain misadventure.
We set out from Normanton Station, which is a great example of Victorian architecture (built 1889-1890). The Gulflander, built in 1950, travelled at a casual 33 or 34 kilometres per hour – the maximum speed is meant to be 40, but you could probably only achieve this near the bottom of a sharp slope without the carriages attached to the engine! Something else worth mentioning is the toilet – “it ends up on the track and we don’t want to leave anything behind”. Some cattle had chosen to graze on the track – they stampeded to the sides after slowing our approach (if that’s possible!). After getting a feel for the rest of the trip – the bone-rattling, violently shuddering motion of the train and the informative running commentary from the driver – we crossed the Norman River, which winds up to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and also passed several beautiful lagoons. The scenery became very constant after that – a vast collection of trees and termite mounds. In all it took more than two and a half hours to reach Blackbull siding (90 km from the start), where we had morning tea (scones with jam/cream and tea or coffee). Then, some drivers became passengers on the train and vice versa.
This is when our little drama took place. After the train left, Merrilyn Ward tried to use her newly cut key to unlock the 504, and found to her horror that it didn’t work, while the other key was on board the train. The people at Blackbull tried to contact the train by radio. When this failed, they tried to catch up to it with a quad bike. It wasn’t fast enough, so Allan used his 404 to pass the train and then walked out onto the tracks waving his arms. It stopped; the announcement about the keys was made to all carriages, and, finally, Allan came back with the key and we were able to continue on our way.
Arriving at Croydon Station, we waited for the train and everyone else. After they came in, we took our bookings at the caravan park.

Christopher Wallis

Daily Journal: Day 39, June 21st, Croydon to Undara

The day dawned wet and dull. The tents were soggy not to mention intrepid puggers. Cars rolled out one by one into the savannah of spear grass, red mud and scrubby trees.
THEN excitement. The ‘twisted sisters’ had no spark and the 504 sat going nowhere. Within minutes males appeared and tools were spread in a 50 metre radius. When no more heads and bums could fit under the bonnet, legs appeared beneath. After much tinkering the battery was flattened and the car needed a tow. Graham deep in thought and conversation forgot to indicate the car had started and was towed 5 kms. The support of fellow travellers is amazing, especially to ‘the sisters’.
Off to the granite tors and a tour of the lava tubes. The whole place being amazing. Evidence of past volcanic flows and remnant dry rainforest; most apt on a wet and soggy day.
Back to the railway car bar to marvel at Tony’s bad luck on destroying yet another windscreen, then doing makeshift repairs only to be hit again. The chill of the day seemed to vanish after a few bottles of red. Just another uneventful day on the road.

Dave Besson and Jan Green

Earlier in the trip Lenie had a wish that she would love to see the countryside we were travelling through after heavy rain. She had received her wish. We woke after overnight rain and packed up quickly. Karen and Margie, aka THE TWISTED SISTERS, enlisted all available help to diagnose a reluctant damp ignition system. A plethora of master mechanics soon had it fired up. Early driving saw much wildlife, particularly wallabies and eagles. We then came across kilometres of orange electrical lead laying beside the road complete with blue tags and sensor probes attached for seismic testing. When we pulled up and asked what the orange lead was for we were told that it was to boil the jug for the workman's smoko. The scenery began to change with larger trees, thicker bushland and it became more undulating. Glimpses of the old highway could be seen from the high bridges. The Gilbert was a wide expanse of sand. Shortly after Tony and Annie smashed another windscreen. Willing hands pulled out the shattered glass. Tony with hat, coat and sunglasses headed for Georgetown in search of a windscreen. He was given a free Landcruiser windscreen which was roped and taped into place. Although much too large it served its purpose. The road was often only one lane wide and the red earth on either side was like soup. Whenever oncoming trucks or road trains were seen in the distance we pulled over and stopped, so that they would stay on the bitumen and not throw up any stones. The further we went, the worse the roads became. We passed through Mt Surprise, an area popular for gemstone fossicking. A free under vehicle wash, to prevent weed dissemination, was tried by Glenn and the violent spray wouldn't allow his car to start for a while. Most of the road into Undara was an excellent surface, but near the end we were back in the soup. At 3.30pm 23 of our party departed in buses with two extremely informative guides, to tour three of the fascinating Undara Lava Tubes - a definite highlight of the trip so far. Some had dinner in the unique Undara restaurant, which was surrounded by three railway carriages. Because of the continual rain many participants decided to upgrade from powered sites to more permanent structures, including the Eco Tents.

 

Hank and Jo Verwoert

Daily Journal: Day 40, June 22nd, Undara to Cairns

Overnight rain again, but it had cleared by the time we were ready to leave. Some keen hikers started their day with a visit to the Undara Crater which was the origin of the flow creating the lava tubes, visited yesterday. The roads were a mixture of recently layed double lane sections, as well as narrow strips similar to yesterday. When we pulled off to allow larger vehicles to pass the shoulder was steep and slippery. Wheels often spun while trying to return to the bitumen. Vegetation became more dense, interspersed with huge rounded termite mounds, unlike the slender ones of previous days. Many people visited Mill Stream Falls, the widest single drop in Australia. The Crater and Dinner Falls was enjoyed by many participants. Once up on the Atherton Tablelands we were amongst green pastured country similar to Gippsland Victoria. The main industry is dairy farming. Misty Mountain lived up to its name and the scenic drive provided access to three more waterfalls. Kuranda Railway Station and Barron Falls provided the last highlight of the Tablelands before the long steep winding decent into Cairns.
 
Garry and Evelyn Ridgway

Daily Journal: Day 41, June 23rd, Cairns, Rest day

Welcome to Colin and Ann Hague and sons Ben and Andrew, who will join us in the Trembath / Wallis 407. Also welcome to Katherine Wallis, our club treasurer. On the first rest day Anje Mann celebrated her 60th birthday. A surprise visit from her younger brother Phillip and wife Jen, who had flown up from Melbourne that morning, ensured a memorable day. Lunch was enjoyed with family and new friends in the upmarket surrounds of the caravan park. Pizzas, pies and fried rice were among the selection of gourmet foods provided. A delicious birthday mudcake, complete with sparklers was enjoyed by all. Anje also spent time that evening with her family and friends at the Reef Casino, enjoying Moet Champagne.
 
The Hague family spent the day diving. on the Great Barrier Reef. Others visited local tourist attractions, such as the Port Douglas Sunday Market, Palm Cove, surrounding National Parks, Mossman Gorge, the Cairns Esplanade and Catalina Memorial.
 
The red mud was removed from most of the cars, but not before Phil's tailgate received a message, "I wish my wife was this dirty".
 
The workboots that were cable tied to the top of the Jennings camper trailer, have been a constant source of amusement through passers-by yelling and gesticulating their well intentioned messages to recover the boots before they are lost.
 
Many of the Pugalists decided to visit the Night Market in Cairns and experienced the bus trip of a lifetime. Once the bus had been boarded and the fare paid, the clutch was dumped and the last paying customer was hurtled towards the back of the bus trying valiantly to grab the top of a seat to avoid exiting through the back window. The cacophonous change to second gear leapt the bus forward almost taking out a cyclist. At the next stop he sailed past the people waiting there and only returned for them when alerted by the passengers in the bus. Every gear change crunched, every roundabout was taken at breakneck speed, the left side wheels were often on the wrong side of double lines going around corners and for much of the time he was reading a map while driving........... Yes, reading a map while driving....obviously fairly new to the game. Please note that this is not an exaggeration, it actually happened. Pauline was heard to say it was the best ride of her life.
 
Upon arriving with hearts racing and limbs almost under control, some serious shopping began. Murray bargained hard and purchased a new Drizasabone. The bus trip home was uneventful.
 
Evelyn and Garry Ridgway, keen birdwatchers, have so far spotted 48 new birds to add to their long list of observed species during this trip. Including the Spangled Drongo, Yellow-Bellied Sunbird and Rainbow Bee-Eater. Hank has observed only one new bird, the Lesser-Feathered Double-Headed Swamp Duck. Which led to spirited UHF conversation.
 
Hank and Jo Verwoert

Daily Journal: Day 42, June 24th, Cairns, Rest day

We were lucky enough to meet up with PCCSA members Wally and June Best who were holidaying in Cairns with their daughter, Debbie. We all decided to make a day trip to Pt Douglas and Mossman Gorge.
30 kms north of Cairns is Palm Cove where the who’s who (and the ‘Splinter group’, Tony, Annie, Les, Lenie, Phil and Kaye) rest up their weary bones. The units on the second level at the Outrigger Hotel have plunge pools facing the beach with tropical fish in them!!
Onto Rex’s lookout where we were in time for a takeoff of tandem hang gliding and NO, I do not jump off cliffs hanging onto aluminium bars and swinging in a sack!!! 6kms later Pt Douglas lookout and a view of 4 Mile Beach with its $4 million homes. We spent a few hours at the markets where the ‘twisted sisters’ (Jan, Margie and Karen) bought ‘anti frogger charms’ to hex the mystery bandit. 13 kms to Mossman Gorge and “Dangermoused” the Rex Suspension Bridge over the Mossman River. Returned back to Cairns and refuelled for Townsville. We got 31.9 miles per gallon with running around Cairns with no van on the back, beeeeaaaauty!
We have a little cleaning job for Carol and Val when we arrive in Brisvegas on Saturday. As they say, a picture tells a thousand words.

Murray Knight and Vern Pepper (Salty)

Daily Journal: Day 43, June 25th, Cairns to Townsville

Day 43 The Rain Report!
Well, welcome to sunny Queensland!
It seems to have rained every day since Tennant Creek except in Cairns where we really enjoyed our stay, in particular sailing in from Green Island. Yes, I mean really sailing, ‘NO MOTOR’.
Back to today, it started to rain as we left Cairns and has not stopped all day. Tony and Annie had a wet run through to Townsville with their temporary land cruiser windscreen and NO wipers. Ross Keith came to their rescue with the delivery of a new toughened screen from Brisbane, which was expertly fitted by Phil and Kaye Thomas and Tony in the Keith’s garage. Tony thanks everyone for their help, twice!!
The phantom frogger has been at it again. We were tagged last night and some time today, which means we may have to set a trap.
It is good to see Peter and Carol Wilson back with us. The ‘new’ diff in place and it looks like the old one is on the roof rack. Peter tells us he had to get over some pretty rough and muddy terrain to retrieve the replacement from a wreck that was located during the Redex Rerun in 2003.
While refuelling at Tully the lass at the cash register admitted she was a Peugeot fan so Allan gave her the website details and she said she will follow the Daily Journal.
Hank sent Jo down the street in the pouring rain to buy him a six pack while he sat talking to Colin Hague in the warmth of his cabin. Murray and Salty have camped out in the sticks, over 10 kms out of Townsville as there are no sites available.

Allan Parker and Grant Jarick

Daily Journal: Day 44, June 26th, Townsville, Rest day

The cool overcast morning was perfect for a cosy coach tour of Townsville. Tour director, Peter Mitchell (PCCV member and Northern Queensland ABC radio commentator and of Ampol Rerun spares truck fame) met us at the caravan park and provided a comprehensive and entertaining thumbnail sketch of Townsville’s history. His commentary included information on military involvement, mining, WWII snippets mainly centred on pubs and brothels, buildings, marine educational facilities and the Olympic swimming connections to the town.
Townsville is the 7th largest Australian port servicing the sugar, mining and cattle industries. The trip up Castle Hill effectively kept Phil quiet on the back seat. It was an impressive feat by Peter getting us safely up and back! Scrapes on the bus sides attest to the fact. General concensus is Hank has a buy option on the new extra large sugar shed for car storage facilities!!!!
There was some conjecture on how The Saint was painted on the face of Castle Hill and the possibility of adding a frog to the paintwork!!!
Magnetic Island in the mist was an awesome sight that Chris and Brian were still admiring as the bus started the return trip.
A very enjoyable barbeque at Ross and Lindy Keith’s and a boy’s trip to see the Bebe (reputedly the oldest Peugoet in Australia) ended a great day in a stunning part of Australia.
Our thoughts are with David.

Margie Betts and Karen Robinson

Daily Journal: Day 45, June 27th, Townsville to Mackay

As most people headed south at 8.30am we were ensuring that the Wallis’s were checking in their luggage at Townsville Airport so that we could take over the 407 and hand back the Hire Corolla. Not only were we now driving in style but the sun was shining down on us – must have known that the Wallis’s were leaving! So a bit after 10am we headed down the Bruce Highway towards Bowen. We had to get out the car manual so that we could operate all the buttons on the console! Out the window there was more sugar cane, less rainforest but still Croc warning signs. We had lunch at the beach at Bowen and met up with Chris and Max.
Back on the road … next stop Airlie Beach. Airlie was not the same as we last saw it 16 years ago – so much development happening. We did find a very nice cafe on the lagoon/beach front where we enjoyed the taste of coffee and milkshakes and the view of catamarans, water and islands. Many of our campers stopped here for the night as the Mackay camping sites were under water.
We followed the Great Dividing Range down to Mackay and booked into our cabin. Met Chris and Max again who kept us company for the evening, camping on our non flooded driveway of our cabin! Just had time to check out one of the Mackay beaches before sunset. Over dessert of pineapple, pawpaw, and rambutan we wondered how Les, Leenie, Phil and Kaye were doing in Longreach – was it the Stockman’s Hall of Fame that lured them there? Just heard the weather and it’s going to be fine right down the coast – Yes!

Colin and Ann Hague

Day 45 Townsville to Longreach
On departure from Townsvile, we left the main group to visit the outback and two bulldozers Les was interested in.  We stopped in Charters Towers for our morning cappuccino, then headed on to Hughenden, where we discovered the road to Winton had been closed. We visited the Dinosaur Centre and made enquiries about the closed road. We discovered the road had been covered with water the previous day and not been inspected that day. Our decision to drive the road was made and we headed for Winton. The road turned out to be fine.
We were too late to take in the Matilda Centre in Winton so made our second monumental decision for the day and headed for Longreach only to discover the town was full of tourists being the high season. A comfortable night was spent camped in the local show grounds along with 40 to 50 other travellers.

From the Splinter Group – Les, Lenie, Phil and Kaye

Daily Journal: Day 46, June 28th, Mackay to Rockhampton

Gathering in Rockhampton

Thursday 28th June 2007 Mackay – Rockhampton We left at 8.45 from the Andergrove Caravan Park to head off to Rockhampton. We decided that we wanted to go to the Crocodile Farm so we only made one stop on the way – at Clairview, a little town with a great beach view. We then proceeded on to Rockhampton. After about two further hours of travelling we reached our destination and saw heaps of U.S. military vehicles.
Allan and Grant visited the railway museum and station in Rockhampton.
Brian and Merrilyn went from Sarina to Marlborough on the old highway. There were lots of corners, hills and river crossings and the rivers were high and passed three cars and a truck in 240 ks. There was only one roadhouse, at Lotus Creek, There also was a sighting of two Pheasant Coucal (Swamp-Pheasant) and notices that the country was quite different to the coastal strip as there were rugged hills and lots of grassland. Glenn and Carol also took the same route and stopped at a replica of the 1956 Olympic Games torch that went through Croydon Station “under difficult circumstances” (which were thought to be floods).

By Ben and Andrew Hague

Day 46 Longreach to Blackall
We awoke to a temperature of two degrees in Longreach and after a pot of Les’s porridge and packing up the tent, headed for the Qantas founders outback museum and the Stockman’s Hall of Fame. They were certainly well worth the visit and we made a promise to ourselves that we would return and devote more time to both of these places one day.  We left late in the day and travelled only to Blackall, where at the local van park, Gary Lowe regaled us with his bush poetry for two hours. Then we were treated to a bush kitchen dinner of pea soup, roast meats, veggies, damper and billy tea. It was a lovely end to another great day. Morning saw us off early after a visit to the original Black Stump.

From the Splinter Group – Les, Lenie, Phil and Kaye

Daily Journal: Day 47, June 29th, Rockhampton to Bundaberg

With only 300 kms to Bundaberg it was a leisurely start with many people enjoying breakfast in the warm sunshine. Even Ken and Pauline had not left at ‘sparrows’. Early morning traffic in Rockhampton included army unimogs and hummers. Four major bridges were visible as we crossed the Fitzroy River. We passed several abandoned service stations between Rockhampton and Mt Larcom.
Slow going for many kilometres behind a huge truck transporting an army tank. On the way into Gladstone we passed the largest alumina refinery in the world. Morning tea was taken overlooking a beautiful marina.
The skills of our Ampol Rerun winner were good enough to avoid the first two kangaroos but not the third, on the way to the township of 1770. 1770 is still a relatively quiet backwater not yet hit by the ravages of tourism. Sister township Agnes Water is totally the opposite with extensive building.
The run into Bundaberg was through continual cane fields and one paddock supported a huge flock of magpie geese. Some participants visited the Bundaberg Rum Distillery while others had to see how their favourite ginger beer was made. Dinner tonight is at the Brothers Sports Club as the Brisbane members are having to tear themselves away to head home tomorrow.

Hank and Jo Verwoert

Day 47 Blackall to Brisbane
Off we went at full pelt to Charleville where Kaye was treated to a surprise meeting with her nephew, Tony. Then, on through Roma to finish the day in Miles. We arrived after sunset and opted for a camp sight away from the road to avoid the traffic noise of the busy highway. Boy were we surprised at two in the morning when we discovered we had camped beside the rail line instead.  Anyhow despite the noise of the train we had a good sleep and left early in the morning eager to be on our way home.

From the Splinter Group – Les, Lenie, Phil and Kaye

Daily Journal: Day 48, June 30th, Bundaberg to Caloundra

Woke to the sounds of an old lady calling ‘Ducky, ducky don’t go on the roadway.’ In her permanent van next to our tent site she appeared in nightie cardy and boots. She was looking after her pet pigeon toed duck as well as the rest of her menagerie. Her neighbour who appeared to be a recent outcast from the Rocky Horror Show, came and had a conversation with her but they said nothing.
Today the Brisbanites and those from northern NSW will be leaving us and many of the remaining participants will be staying with family and friends in and around Brisbane.
Off down the Bruce Highway and the first stop was Howard where there was a drapery shop which had obviously cornered the market on all the reams of patchwork material in Southern Queensland. Anje managed to relieve them of ten percent of their stock. The local bakery had magnificent ‘snot blocks’.
Lunch was at the lookout of the Glasshouse Mountains which we had last visited on the Redex Rerun 2003.

Hank and Jo Verwoert

Started the day at Maurie West’s Peugeot Dealership, in Bundaberg for an oil change. KKU765 had the best service for a long time – I think Maurie liked having an old car on the hoist, it certainly had a very thorough check. One customer made comment about having a ‘real car’ to work on. Maurie has been a great supporter of the Redex and Ampol Reruns and now our latest adventure. Thanks Maurie for your support.
We looked around Bundy before heading south via the back roads beside the Mary River. This is a planned dam site to provide water for Brisbane and has the locals up in arms. It looks as though it will be a shallow dam and I wonder about evaporation. The road will be closed on Sunday for a Classic Rally. Unfortunately it will be the wrong Sunday for us otherwise they might have had more spectators.

Glenn and Carolyn Hall

Daily Journal: Day 49, July 1st, Caloundra to Byron Bay

After liberal helpings of porridge at Phil and Kaye Thomas’s house we left Ipswich but did not get out of town before seeing signs to a Swap Meet. Talked to the owner of a 1929 Dodge ute which he uses as an everyday driver. Off down the road to Boonah to avoid the freeways. This area has been ravaged by drought but was still spectacular with magnificent undulating roads frequented by a large number of weekend motorcyclists. Lunch in Kyogle.
As we drove around one of the many bends about 10 kms out from Nimbin, we thought we saw a 505 at the head of a large collection of cars in a paddock. When we got closer it was indeed a large collection of 504s and 505s and a few early Land Rovers. It was the collection of Ron Woods, who is ‘Nimbin’ on the Aussie Frog website. Naturally we could not drive past without calling in and introducing ourselves. Ron is a very friendly, helpful Peugeot enthusiast who showed us over his interesting and varied collection. On to Nimbin where the aromas around the shops were distinctly herbal. An old lady was sitting in amongst dresses she had for sale on the footpath, but she also produced a bag of cookies which she sold to a young couple, telling them to put the cookies out of sight as there were cameras on the street. Shops were brightly painted but the atmosphere was not the same as it was in the 70s and 80s. People looked tired and unhealthy. Then drove along many of the interesting roads we had previously used on a recent Lismore Easter Pageant before arriving in Byron Bay.
Ian and Sue Reeve had the non powered tent site to themselves.
The Hague family completely drenched themselves and wore themselves out at Dreamworld.
Today’s question…. Who owns a 3 wheeled 505 GTi wagon?

Hank and Jo Verwoert

Daily Journal: Day 50, July 2nd, Byron Bay, Rest day

Day 50 was another sunny day, bringing further healing and closure to the rain-traumatised L’Aventuronauts regrouping at Byron Bay for the final assault on the circumnavigation. Some stragglers, including Murray and Val, Graham and Karen and Brian and Merrilyn, arrived during the rest day, while the remainder of the somewhat depleted fleet engaged in the typical rest day activities of relaxed sight-seeing and therapeutic shopping. The exception, as might be expected, were the fleet’s ambulatory addicts, the Halls and the Reeves. The former, not content with circumnavigation of Australia on wheels, had to circumnavigate the Cape Byron headland on foot, while the latter, consistent with their persistant habit of disappearing into the bush at every opportunity, circumnavigated the Minyon Loop track in the Nightcap Range National Park.
In the early evening, the L’Aventuronauts gathered at the camp kitchen to have their loins girded by the esteemed leader for the last leg of the trip, and to share the day’s experiences. Notable among these were:

- the Hagues re-equipped some of their feet in Byron Bay, sensibly avoiding the crystal massage dolphin healing joggers for which the locality is famous,

- Karen felt she needed treatment for withdrawal symptons due to unduly long periods in the passenger seat, but knowing that the totality of Byron Bay’s medical infrastructure is devoted to the treatment of backpackers with hangovers and lost souls who are yet to find the meaning of life, she has decided to go cold turkey,

- the Hall-Ward cabin or its inhabitants seems to be unusually attractive to the local wildlife, including a frog and a magpie,

- whales spotted off Cape Byron by the Verwoerts and the Wards, and

- dolphins spotted in the same locality by the Knights,

- Glenn and Carol Hall ate at the Twisted Sista Café.

Ian and Sue Reeve

Daily Journal: Day 51, July 3rd, Byron Bay to Coffs Harbour

Crisp morning, 8.30 start. First stop was at Lennox Head, very picturesque with a lovely beach. Obviously school holidays as many teenagers were out surfing. Wonderful views from the Pat Morton Lookout above the town. Whales were spotted and a large flock of sea birds were dive bombing a school of fish.
Morning tea at Evans Head, another tidy town with beautiful beaches. Brian and Merrilyn visited the Wood Shop in Ulmarra which contained many superb pieces from small bowls to large tables and chairs. Milling machines were able to handle up to one metre wide slabs of forest redgum. Next door the antique shop was also a popular point of interest. A memorable sunset over the islands behind the caravan park was followed by happy hour in the up market tent area.
Today’s question…. Who drove off and left their wife in her jammies?
Today’s statement… I had three wedding rings but only one wedding…. Sue Reeve

Hank and Jo Verwoert

Daily Journal: Day 52, July 4th, Coffs Harbour to Monkerai

Lineup in front of the Bunkhouse at Riverwood Downs

Robbo’s report.
There has to be a better way to start the day than discussing the pros and cons of insurance policies with a caravan driver who is unable to look before reversing! And there has to be a better way to end a day than explaining to Alastair and Myra that Karen and Margie travelled several thousand kilometres and only managed a broken speedo but the front end damage occurred on MY SECOND DAY!!!! So to console myself I went shopping, a new SLR Olympus camera and instruction book is now in my luggage. By the way HSV012 (Hank’s Smashed Vehicle) has a new headlight. I knew I went shopping for something practical.
Coffs Harbour beach areas are stunning and the International Marina has both my boats anchored securely. The rivers and hills in this area are spectacular with lots of fishing opportunities when full retirement kicks in. Nambucca River oyster beds are a real definite!!

Karen’s bit
The tourist drive from Taree to Gloucester and then onto Riverwood Downs was special. The sun patterns on the mountains and bushland were fantastic, a great contrast to the navigator’s (Graham’s) white knuckles.
Grant and Allan duly fortified with their FREE pancake breakfast found the Old Jail at South West Rocks and whale watched at Smokey Point Lighthouse.
Glenn and Carol chose an unusual place for lunch, the historic cemetery at Port Macquarie. The mealtime conversation was less than sparkling.
Annie and Tony inspected the artwork and graphics of the locals at the Nambucca Heads breakwater that they found very entertaining and witty. Then later on in the day after checking the surf at Crescent Head, by a masterstroke of navigational skill found the ferry to Port Macquarie. No mundane main roads for these guys!
John and Guia found some interesting antique shops in Kempsey and are on the look out for some glass pieces tomorrow, thanks to a tip or two from Val.
Merrilyn and Brian took the road to Barrington Tops and found good driving bends on winding, dirt roads.
Maybe they were looking for Ian and Sue who took a trip down memory lane (13 kms of horrible dirt road into Limeburners National Park, dead end, so 13 kms back). Either the road has changed or the memory isn’t as good.
Colin, Andrew, Ann and Ben saw the dolphins and the Alma Dopel sailing ship and later at dinner, learnt some amazing party tricks from Chris and Myra.
Geoff, Anje, Hank and Jo enjoyed a relaxing lunch on the banks of the Manning River but couldn’t catch Murray and Val who were travelling to Riverwood Downs towing the ‘mobile boudoir’.
Paul, Alastair, Myra, Phil, Lyn, Chris and Val joined us all for a great dinner at Riverwood Downs. Hank even managed to score a second serving of an excellent dessert. Talk about graft and corruption!!!
Alastair and Myra recounted tales of their Van trip through the centre and the amazing 2,600 kms trip of Chris and Alastair from Riverwood Downs to Ballarat and back in two days – something to do with a 203 styleside ute, a unique aussie body style and possibly only one of seven or eight existing. I reckon this is Alastair’s excuse for more future trips to Australia!!
Our sincere thanks to Chris and Val for their warm hospitality and a look in Chris’s shed. The 604 GTi was much photographed. A wonderful day enjoyed in many ways.

Robbo with help from Karen

PS; I’m not sure if I’m an honorary ‘Twisted Sister’, a twisted husband or ‘Hey You’, but I’m finding the pace hard to handle.

Daily Journal: Day 53, July 5th, Monkerai to Kiama

Breakfast at Riverwood Downs this morning was huge – juice, cereal, toast, sausages, eggs. bacon, tomato and hash browns. This will make lunch a struggle. Most of us then went up to Chris Hall’s huge shed/ workshop behind his magnificent house which overlooks the valley. Chris showed us some of his collection including his recently purchased 504 coupe which is undergoing restoration, his 604 GTi and the 404 ute which he will probably take on the Three Tracks Trip next year. We said farewell to John and Guia who were heading home and we noticed that their 404 wagon was well down at the back due to the enormous amounts of Depression Glass that Guia had purchased on the trip. Anje was not well so Geoff decided to head back to Orbost through Canberra. Tony and Annie headed for their holiday house in Tuross. Thanks again Annie for your great work on the website and Tony for your excellent cover on the July issue of Torque. Gary and Evelyn were still in Brisbane having some injector problems solved.

It was an easy drive down the expressway to Sydney and the new M7 completely bypasses Sydney and puts you on the start of the Hume Highway very quickly. We took the turnoff to Mittagong and sheltered there in a bakery for lunch. Colin and Ann tried very hard to satisfy the hunger of their sons , with only partial success. A brisk walk around Bowral where the lady in the newsagency was pleased that the temperature had just gone up to 4 degrees after being 3 degrees all morning. The trip down to the cost was steep and twisty with a truck in front of us needing three point turns to get around some of the tight corners. We arrived in Kiama and visited the famous Blowhole but the sea was flat and Blowhole was not blowing. Then on to East’s Caravan Park where the receptionist told us about one of the vehicles of Peugeot club member, the late Robert East, recently being towed away on a trailer. It was of course the 203 ute purchased by Alastair Inglis, which he had picked up a few days before with Chris Hall. I assured her it was in excellent hands. The park itself was one of the best I have been to with very clean bright modern facilities and an excellent camp kitchen where some of us would spend some time sheltering from the wind. Gary and Evelyn had reached Grafton and were setting up in the dark. We had an enjoyable dinner at the Kiama Leagues Club.

Hank and Jo Verwoert.

Daily Journal: Day 54, July 6th, Kiama to Merimbula

Cool morning after a windy night. Back to the blowhole. Heavy seas along the coast ensured that the blowhole was blowing. Out to sea whales could be seen heading north. We all agreed that Kiama was a lovely town that we would eventually come back to explore in depth. Colin, Ann, Ben and Andrew headed off to Tathra where they would stay for a few more days. Down the highway heading south – initial heavily timbered country gave way to open areas with dairy farms. Side roads led to dozens of popular holiday destinations. Stopped at Mogo, just south of Batemans Bay, an interesting village specializing in arts and crafts but with a few surprises including an excellent zoo. Lunch stop was at the lookout just north of Bega where we had a coffee break with the Wattos and the Brockies while attending the last Worm Weekend at Narooma.

Others ventured into Tuross. We arrived at Merimbula and booked into the Hillcrest Motel ($59 a double) as each room has magnificent elevated views over all of Merimbula. Neville and Dot Summerill arrived at the same time from Bombala to spend the evening with the remaining “ L’aventurers” who were still on their way back to Victoria. A courtesy base picked us up and took us to the Pambula golf Club where Ian and Sue, Allan and Grant, Neville and Dot, Glenn and Carol, Brian and Merrilyn, Robbo and Karen, Murray and Val and the Verwoerts had another excellent meal which was topped off by a dessert called “Death by Chocolate.” Further reminiscing about the trip continued in one of the motel rooms on our return.

Garry and Evelyn had reached Raymond Terrace.

Hank and Jo Verwoert.

Daily Journal: Day 55, Final Day, July 7th, Merimbula to Melbourne (Home)

A cold night but a lovely sunny morning. Murray and Val left very early. Karen and Robbo headed back via Albury and Neville and Dot returned home to Bombala. Allan and Grant would be staying the night in Lakes Entrance and Ian and Sue would be staying with friends before meeting Garry and Evelyn for the run home . Parts of the Princes highway were covered in mist as the Wards, Halls and Verwoerts travelled through heavily timbered ranges interspersed with scenic beaches and river estuaries. This highway reaches its highest point in Victoria, 326 metres, at Drummer Saddle just before Cann River. Brian is very familiar with this area as he and Merrilyn used to live and work here. There were emus and kangaroos beside the road as well as the evidence of recent storms in the area. We got in touch with Anje and Geoff who live just out of Orbost and had coffee with them at the Snowy River Café in the main street. On our way through Lakes Entrance we observed many shops which were still surrounded by sandbags, a reminder of the severe flooding of the week before. Under the main bridge on the way into Bairnsdale roadways and footpaths were partially washed away from the same deluge. Lunch was in Sale where the weather was typical of Gippsland in winter, a far cry from that in Broome and Darwin. A last good bye and it was off home. Whenever we think about the trip you can’t get the smiles off our faces.

L’Aventure Peugeot 2009 is already being formulated.

Hank and Jo Verwoert.